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Slide 1: Gardens of Natural Delights™ tour and natural gardening program HOST AND VOLUNTEER ORIENTATION 2009 Contents Tour day schedule, page 2 Host responsibilities, page 2 Volunteer responsibilities, page 3 Techniques for sparking interest in natural gardening, page 4 Key natural gardening messages, page 5 Natural gardening resources, page 13 Tour staff contact information, page 16 (back cover) Page 1
Slide 2: Thank you so much for your interest and commitment to volunteer for the Metro natural gardening program. The following materials will help guide your efforts. While much of the information applies to all programs, some is tour specific. More detailed information about the individual program you will help with will be provided via email or other means. We hope you have fun helping make the region more healthy, beautiful and safe. Tour day schedule 11:30 a.m. Noon 4 p.m. Arrive in host garden and tour garden with host Tour opens, Greeters greet, Educators educate 2009 tour ends…. Congratulations! Tour host responsibilities Ensure that your garden is in “showcase condition” (well maintained and fairly well weeded for May 3), and that your garden is maintained without the use of synthetic chemicals. Be at home and in the garden for the four-hour (noon to 4 p.m.) event and be available to answer questions about your garden. Orient volunteers to your garden. Orientation time is 11:30 a.m. on the morning of the tour. Identify and remove any hazards such as loose path stones, hoses, garden tools, etc. Store these items in an area that is off-limits to tour guests, or plan the tour to avoid these and any other hazards. Secure any valuable property. Tour guests will not be permitted in your home. This will be spelled out in the tour brochure. Confine pets for both pet and guest safety. Do not sell any products or services to garden guests nor accept any money from guests. Do not write on any of the pre-printed signs provided. Signs are reused annually. Provide restroom access for your complement of volunteers. Identify and resolve any parking issues that can be resolved for the four-hour duration. Provide a small table, stand, or something suitable for guest sign-in book and garden literature, and a chair for two volunteers. Set up your tour garden sign in a visible front yard location on your tour day. Also set up specific technique signs next to the demonstrated techniques. Page 2
Slide 3: Use tiles and pen provided by Metro to label plants you think visitors will ask about and ones you would like to highlight. Save some tiles to label popular plants after the first hour or two of the tour. Use larger tiles to create a display of your favorite tools, products or techniques, space allowing. Wear your tour t-shirt on your tour day, with your host name tag. Volunteers will also wear a tour t-shirt with a different name tag. Tour volunteer educator responsibilities 1. Read the key natural gardening messages and tourbook carefully. 2. Arrive early and sign in using the volunteer sign in sheet. 3. Do not bring valuables with you to the host garden as the tour hosts can’t be held responsible for storing valuables. 4. Tour the host garden with the host. 5. Start with one of the two main jobs and switch with another volunteer half way through the tour: 6. GREETING Provide excellent customer service. Greet with a smile  and welcome ALL visitors. You will be representing Metro to the public, so maintain a professional demeanor at all times. Check to see visitors have their tour book/ticket before they enter the garden. If someone does not, you do not need to stop them from entering. Please let them know there may be extra tour books at the public demonstration garden that they could pick up this time. But in the future, they will need to preregister. Collect ZIP codes. Ensure EVERYONE signs in with their zip code. Promote and collect pledges. Ask and encourage people to pledge—don’t pressure them. Let them know if they pledge to make their home and yard pesticide free and talk to at least three people about their pledge, they can have a ladybug sign for their garden. Collect the portion of their pledge card that contains their contact information and send them off with the part they signed (as their reminder), and a yard sign. Keep greeter table and area neat and tidy. First impressions are powerful, and clutter is confusing. EDUCATION Focus on the goal to help visitors go organic (or stay organic) by using natural gardening techniques instead of toxic garden chemicals. Remind visitors that natural gardening is fun, safe, and effective. Talk with them about natural gardening. Start by asking the basics: Page 3
Slide 4: Do they use compost or mulch? Do they have a favorite plant? Do they have a favorite organic product or natural gardening technique? Do they have a particular gardening problem that they would like to find a solution for? Would they like to save money on watering? Do they have any questions about chemical-free gardening? You can also refer visitors to Metro Recycling Information at 503-234-3000, and to the resources listed in their tour book. 7. Don’t forget to stay hydrated and take a break. However, please do not eat in front of guests. 8. Encourage visitors to attend the brief, fun presentations at the demonstration garden on the tour (listed in tour book). There will also be a full line of free publications and a free gift at the demo garden. 9. Sign out using the volunteer sign in sheet. 10. Complete the online survey form after the tour to help us improve the program. Techniques for sparking interest in natural gardening Natural Gardening is fun, safe, and effective—but people don’t always know that! You can help tour visitors by starting up a conversation about natural gardening. 5 easy ways to start up a conversation 1. Use captivating information. You can get a visitor’s attention by sharing with them vivid, personal and concrete information. Do you have a favorite fact about beneficial bugs, or hardy plants, or compost that you could share with the visitor? 2. Ask a question. You can approach a visitor by asking them a question about their garden and their interests. Are they interested in improving their soil? Would they want to know about non-toxic, kid friendly pest control? What products do they already use on their lawn or flowers? 3. Use a credible source. Tour visitors will appreciate your expert opinion. Is there a book, class, organization, agency or program you can refer to or recommend to visitors? 4. Focus on what they have to lose. People pay more attention to what they could lose, like losing their good soil, their beneficial insects, their time or money. For example, you could talk to people about what will Page 4
Slide 5: happen if they use a chemical that is UNSAFE for kids, pets, streams and wildlife. They could lose their healthy soil, or bees that pollinate their flowers. Not so good! 5. Carefully consider threatening messages. People can get overwhelmed by hearing about the nasty side of toxic garden chemicals. You can help people stay interested by talking about the specific ways they can take action. For example, you could ask visitors how they fertilize their garden. If they say they use a synthetic, quick release fertilizer, it is OK to let them know those fertilizers could end up in our drinking water. It is also nice to let them know they could use an organic, slow release fertilizer, still get great results AND help keep local rivers and streams clean. Want to learn more ways to get your message across, and about Community Based Social Marketing (CBSM)? Visit http://www.cbsm.com Key natural gardening messages Check out the tips below for some nitty, gritty details on growing a beautiful, productive garden safe for people pets and the planet. You can also see these tips put to work in host gardens on the tour. Look for the green and white signs pointing them out. The basics of natural gardening Foster fertile soil with compost and mulch Pick the right plant for the right place Go chemical-free Conserve water Save energy Tips for fertile soil Fertile soil fosters healthy plants that largely protect themselves from pests and diseases. In other words, good soil means fewer pesticides, if any, and less work.  Use compost and mulch o Why waste your time and money on regular fertilizer applications when compost can do most of the work for you? Good compost contains organisms that turn soil, dead plant parts and air into fertilizers on an ongoing basis. These same creatures can turn hard clay into soft, welldrained soil. This helps the rain soak into the ground, to irrigate deep- Page 5
Slide 6: rooted plants, conserve water and reduce runoff and pollution in our local rivers and streams. Make compost at home or buy it at the nursery and use it as an amendment or mulch. Other organic materials such as fall leaves and woodchips can also be used as a mulch. These slowly decompose on the soil surface, providing the benefits of compost plus weed suppression and improved water retention.  Minimize or eliminate fertilizer use o A well-established organic garden requires few if any purchased fertilizers since soil organisms generate the nutrients plants need from tiny rocks, dead plant parts and air. To establish your organic garden soil, add compost each year and avoid fast-acting, chemical fertilizers. Limiting fertilizer use also helps prevent pollution from running off into storm drains and into our local rivers and streams.  Use slow-release, organic fertilizers — if any o In a garden that is in transition from chemical to organic methods, use slow-release organic fertilizers such as alfalfa meal and kelp meal along with your yearly applications of compost. This will help encourage plant growth that is strong and more resistant to pests and diseases. o Fast-acting fertilizers, especially nitrogen, can foster plant growth that is more likely to be harmed by pests and diseases. If any of the three prominent numbers on the front label of a fertilizer container are significantly higher than 12, read the fine print to make sure the fertilizer is organic or at least slow-release. These three numbers refer to the percentages of nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K), respectively, found in the fertilizer.  Make compost from fruit, vegetable and yard trimmings o You can make your own compost from fruit, vegetable and yard trimmings in a compost bin, worm bin or pile. There are three basic steps: 1. Chop materials as you add them. 2. Mix dry, woody “brown” materials (such as twigs and fall leaves) with moist “green” materials (such as grass clippings and fruit and vegetable trimmings). 3. Maintain moisture so your compost is as damp as a wrung-out sponge. o Compost is ready to harvest when it looks like soil and smells sweet and earthy — usually in four to 12 months.  Mulch your grass clippings by leaving them on the lawn (grasscycle) o Mow high and let the clippings lie. This saves time and trouble and grows greener grass. Clippings left on the lawn decompose quickly and improve soil by adding nutrients and feeding beneficial soil organisms. This process allows your grass to grow stronger. Mulching does not cause Page 6
Slide 7: thatch. Set your mower to about three inches high and don’t let your grass get taller than five inches. Tips for picking the right plant for the right place Why waste your efforts on plants that are bound to have problems from the beginning? Pick plants that are well adapted to your garden's conditions and they are more likely to thrive with fewer fertilizers and pesticides and less work.  Pick plants to match your sun, soil, space and water o “Right plant, right place” is all-important. No matter if a plant is native or exotic, it will have fewer problems if it is planted in the microclimate it is adapted to. Put sun-loving plants in the sun and shade lovers in the shade, etc. If a plant needs well drained-soil and you have slow-draining clay, look for a different plant or different place (and add some compost to your soil). Whenever possible, choose plants that can thrive on natural rainfall without irrigation.  Group plants with similar needs o Why waste good water and fertilizers on plants that don’t need them, or accidentally starve those that do? You can easily avoid this by grouping plants with similar needs. Place sun lovers here, shade lovers there and plants that need well-drained soil separate from those that prefer clay. When each plant gets what it needs it will have fewer pests, diseases and nutrient problems.  Add native plants o Plants native to the Pacific Northwest are more likely to thrive here since they are adapted to our climate and soils. They are also the best plants to support wildlife since they have co-evolved over millions of years with the local wildlife and insects. But remember there are many microclimates in our region — from hot dry valleys to cool, shady forests, to moist wetlands. Select plants that are adapted to the conditions of the spot you will plant them and they are much more likely to thrive.  Grow disease-resistant and pest-resistant plants o Resistant plants are often the best defense against diseases and pests. Native plants are generally disease- and pest-resistant, as are plants from other areas with Mediterranean climates with dry summers and cool wet winters. Regardless of the plant itself, you should always plant plants in the right place. If they don’t get the specific sun or soil conditions they are adapted to, plants can succumb to diseases and pests more easily.  Plant beneficial insect-attracting plants o You can attract “beneficial bugs” that will eat your pests so you don't have to spray. Simply plant lots of different kinds of flowers, especially Page 7
Slide 8: native ones, and you will have more beneficial insects in your yard. Combining carrot-family plants with aster-family plants will help provide a large and consistent supply of nectar.  Plant trees for stormwater and habitat benefits o Growing trees, especially native varieties, is a great way to help our cities function more like forests. Trees help the soil absorb storm water, keep the air cooler in summer, and provide vital habitat for local birds. Birds in turn eat pests of the garden, reducing the need for pesticides.  Pick plants for specific wildlife o You can plant specific plants to help your favorite wildlife find food and shelter. Hummingbirds and butterflies depend on the nectar of tubularshaped flowers. Many birds depend on the deep cover that evergreen trees and shrubs provide. In general, native plants are the best for wildlife since they have co-evolved with them over millions of years. Diverse wildlife in the garden helps keep pest populations down.  Grow a green, “green” lawn o To grow the greenest lawn on the block without chemicals: mulch, overseed, topdress, and water smart.  Mulch (or grasscycle) your lawn by mowing high and letting the clippings lie on top of the grass after you’re through mowing.  Overseed each spring or fall with a Pacific Northwest lawn seed mix by using one-quarter the amount of grass seed recommended for new turf and scattering it over your entire lawn.  Topdress with a high quality weed-free compost by sprinkling a 1/4- to 1/2-inch layer over the whole lawn in spring or fall every of alternating years.  If green in summer is what you seek be sure your lawn gets one inch of water a week. Water deeply but infrequently so the roots grow longer and the grass grows stronger.  Never use weed and feed. Remove weeds by hand and always overseed and topdress the bare soil. A healthy lawn will outcompete most weeds, so you save time and trouble once it is established.  Grow an eco-lawn (by including native and flowering plants) o By adding clover, yarrow or other low-growing, flowering plants to your turf, and letting it grow a little taller than usual, you can have a beautiful lawn that is more drought tolerant and easier to care for. Look for “ecolawn” seed mixes at the nursery.  Reduce your lawn and expand your lower-maintenance plantings Page 8
Slide 9: o One way to reduce a garden’s need for maintenance and water is to reduce the size of a lawn or eliminate the lawn entirely and replace it with plants that require less water, fertilizer and maintenance.  Plant alternatives to invasives o Several common garden plants can easily escape into our local forests and streams and harm native plant communities and wildlife. Many of these plants could also spread within a garden and lead people to consider using herbicides (even though you can manage them in a garden without herbicides). Happily, there are great alternatives to invasive plants. A few common ones are listed here and sources for additional information are in the resources section below. Invasive plants Alternatives  Butterfly bush Douglas spirea  English holly Pacific wax myrtle  Himalayan blackberry Salmonberry  Bamboo, trailing Bamboo, clumping Tips for preventing pest problems, chemical free You can prevent most pests, weeds and diseases by building healthy soil, putting the right plant in the right place and using mulches. A few pests and weeds can be tolerated and even helpful. Avoiding pesticides will also protect beneficial insects and birds that can kill your pests so you don’t have to.  Select plants that resist pests and diseases o See tip details on a preceding page  Pick plants to match your sun, soil, space and water o See tip details on a preceding page.  Mulch to prevent weeds o Durable mulches like wood chips, bark, hazelnut shells and stone can prevent most weeds. For best results, use a barrier layer like cardboard or newspaper (in beds), landscape fabric (in paths), and spread the mulch 2-3 inches thick on top. For annual beds, use a finer material like compost or straw if you want to be able to mix it into the soil at the end of the season.  Out-compete weeds with dense plantings o Living mulch is the next best thing to regular mulch for preventing weeds. Plants spaced so they shade the ground completely when mature will help to prevent the germination and growth of many weeds. Spreading groundcovers can fill in between larger plants.  Hand pull, dig or cut weeds Page 9
Slide 10: o In those areas where you cannot easily mulch or plant densely to prevent weeds, physically remove them when they are young. Specialized weeding tools like the hoola hoe, delta hoe, and long-handled dandelion puller make weed removal easy from a standing position. Smaller hand tools like the hori hori knife or simple hand pulling work great, and offer a little extra exercise through squatting and kneeling.  Tolerate some plant damage o A few weeds or a few pest nibbles on your leaves are not the end of the world — for you or your plants! In fact, the presence of small numbers of pests can ensure that the beneficial bugs and birds that eat those pests will stay around to help you when you need it most.  Use copper barriers for slugs o A three-inch-wide strip of copper foil or copper tape can prevent slugs from getting into a planter pot or raised bed. Be sure to remove all the slugs from inside the barrier and keep plants from forming a bridge between the inside and outside.  Build a bug bath o A simple tray of water filled with pebbles or sand can help insects such as butterflies, honeybees, ladybugs and tiny, pest-eating mini-wasps find the water and minerals they need to thrive. To prevent mosquitoes from breeding in the water, simply rinse it out once or twice a week.  Use nontoxic or less-toxic products o There are certain plant pests and diseases in the Pacific Northwest that can be tricky to prevent at all times, even on plants that are well adapted to our climate and soils. This is where non-toxic and least-toxic products come in. Damage from slugs, for example, can be prevented with iron phosphate bait; use insecticidal soap to prevent damage from aphids; and young weeds can be killed with acetic acid. All three materials can be purchased in forms that have a low toxicity. However, even low-toxicity pesticides and herbicides can harm non-target organisms, including humans, so use with caution if you use them at all. Tips for conserving water Why waste water when you can do so much with so little? When plants get the right amount of water, they are stronger and tend to have fewer diseases and soil-nutrient problems. Saving water can also reduce runoff and pollution of our local rivers and streams. The best way to know if your soil needs water is to dig down 6-12 inches or more and feel it with your fingers. For most plants, the soil should be somewhat dry but not bone dry between waterings. If your plants have wilted, you waited too long!  Pick plants that thrive with little or no irrigation Page 10
Slide 11: o Whenever possible, choose plants that can thrive on natural rainfall without irrigation. Many native and Mediterranean plants thrive without summer water. But even these plants will need some water during the first summer or two as they are established.  Group plants with similar needs o See tip details on a preceding page.  Irrigate with trickle irrigation o Soaker hoses or high-quality drip systems can save you water, time and trouble. These deliver water right to the soil surface so less is lost through evaporation.  Automate irrigation timing and adjust with the weather o Use an automatic shut-off valve or timer system and adjust your watering schedule with the weather. An automatic rain shutoff device will ensure your irrigation system does not turn on when it is raining.  Use a rain gauge to help determine watering needs o A rain gauge measures how much water falls on the soil from the rain or from sprinklers. Most plants need less than one inch of water per week. But remember, digging down and feeling your soil is the only way to know what additional water, if any, your soil needs.  If green in summer is what you seek, your lawn will need an inch a week o Your lawn likely needs about an inch of water each week total (including rain), unless you are letting it go dormant for the summer. Use one or more rain gauges to measure how long it takes your sprinklers to deliver an inch of water, then use this to determine how long to water your lawn. Deeper, less frequent watering fosters deeper roots and stronger plants. To obtain a “Weekly watering number” irrigation recommendation for our region that is based on actual weather data, visit www.conserveh2o.org.  Disconnect downspouts if your site allows o Disconnecting your downspouts so rainwater can flow into your yard and soak into the soil waters deep-rooted plants in winter and helps prevent storm water from polluting our local rivers and streams. However, first consult your city government for help determining if your site allows for safe capture of rainwater from your roof. If it does, you can let your roof runoff flow onto a lawn or into a rain garden as long as it does not overflow onto the street or a neighboring property. o Typical 55-gallon rain barrels can capture a tiny fraction of the water from a roof. They should be totally enclosed, emptied frequently, or Page 11
Slide 12: treated with a Bt-based natural insecticide to prevent mosquitoes from breeding.  Build a rain garden o Rain gardens are a great way to capture storm water and keep it from polluting our local rivers and streams. Rain gardens are shallow depressions in the soil that collect the rain from a roof or driveway and will soak up all the water into the soil below within approximately 24 hours. Rain gardens are often planted with native plants and others that will thrive in wet soil in winter and dry soil in summer.  Convert to pervious paths and pervious paving o Paths and paving that can soak up the rain help water deep-rooted plants, prevent runoff into local rivers and streams and help recharge groundwater supplies. When building or converting a path or driveway, use woodchips, gravel or sand-set pavers to help the rain soak in.  Include a pond, birdbath or other water source for wildlife o Water features can provide vital water for birds, bees, butterflies and other insects that will eat pests in your garden. To prevent mosquitoes, be sure to include mosquito-eating fish in ponds, or for smaller water features, completely clean out and replace standing water at least weekly.  Use the sound of water to attract wildlife o The sound of falling water can attract birds and other wildlife to your yard and provide vitally needed water. These creatures in turn can help you keep plant pest populations down. Tips for saving energy and reducing garden carbon emissions Natural gardening can help you reduce your carbon emissions. Increasing soil organic matter and growing trees and shrubs can sequester carbon, and using less energy can reduce carbon release.  Use hand tools and till less o Use hand tools instead of power tools to reduce carbon emissions and annoying noise, and to get more exercise. Electric-powered tools, especially from clean power sources like wind, are the next best things. Avoiding rototillers and generally digging less will also reduce the release of carbon from the soil, and reduce your garden workload.  Make fewer trips to the nursery o Drive less, save more. This applies to garden-related driving, too. Instead of depending on store-bought fertilizers, mulches and annual plants, make compost, grasscycle, use fall leaves, and grow more perennials and Page 12
Slide 13: shrubs. For those things you do need from the nursery, use your bicycle if you can, plan ahead so you make fewer trips, or carpool.  Grow some of your own food o Research shows that even kids will eat more fruits and vegetables if they grow some of their own. And in most cases, eating more plants (and less meat) means fewer carbon emissions. Growing your own produce also means your food travels approximately zero miles to get to your plate, further reducing carbon. Finally, it just tastes better, and you can be sure food is organic if you grow it yourself.  Reduce, reuse and recycle o By mulching your grass clippings, composting your fruit, vegetable and yard trimmings, spreading your fall leaves as mulch and recycling and reusing all you can, you will be saving energy and preventing pollution. Some natural gardening resources Metro Natural gardening seminars and presentations Attend one of Metro’s free seminars, or arrange a presentation for your group anytime. 503-234-3000 www.oregonmetro.gov/garden Metro Recycling (and natural gardening) Information Center Talk to real people with fast, friendly information about natural gardening and composting, as well as recycling, waste prevention and alternatives to hazardous household products. 503-234-3000 www.oregonmetro.gov/recycling Metro natural gardening guides and handbooks Get a free copy of Natural gardening, Composting, Grow Smart, Grow Safe and more. 503-234-3000. www.oregonmetro.gov/garden Metro GreenScene Subscribe to Metro’s quarterly calendar of nature activities offered all over the region. Discover natural gardening workshops, bird walks, wildflower identification, mushroom walks, paddle trips, wildlife watching, volunteer opportunities and more. 503-797-1850 www.oregonmetro.gov/greenscene Page 13
Slide 14: Compost bins Purchase the popular Earth Machine compost bin for $39 at the MetroPaint store. 4825 N. Basin Ave., Swan Island, Portland. 503-234-3000 Partner organizations Audubon Society of Portland 503-292-6855 www.audubonportland.org GardenSmart Oregon, A Guide to Non-invasive Plants “Prevention tips” page at www.opb.org/programs/invasives Growing Gardens 503-284-8420 www.growing-gardens.org Naturescaping www.naturescape.org Northwest Coalition for Alternatives to Pesticides www.pesticide.org 541-344-5044 Oregon State University Extension Service Master Gardener Program http://extension.oregonstate.edu/ 503-821-1150 Portland Community Gardens 503-823-1612 comgardens@ci.portland.or.us Regional Water Providers Consortium 503-823-7528 www.conserveh2o.org Washington Toxics Coalition 206-632-1545 www.watoxics.org Page 14
Slide 15: Places to go Gresham Discovery Garden 410 North Main Ave., Gresham 503-618-2657 www.ci.gresham.or.us/cleanrivers Metro’s Blue Lake Natural Discovery Garden Located at Blue Lake Regional Park, between Marine Drive and Sandy Blvd. off Northeast 223rd Ave., Fairview 503-234-3000 www.oregonmetro.gov/garden Metro’s Natural Techniques Demonstration Garden 6800 SE 57th Ave., Portland 503-234-3000 www.metro-region.org/garden Oregon Tilth Organic Education Center at Luscher Farm 135 Rosemont Road, West Linn 503-638-0735 www.tilth.org/research Oregon Zoo See the new Backyard Makeover exhibit for welcoming wildlife 503-220-2781 www.oregonzoo.org Washington County Fair Complex Garden OSU Extension Service’s all-organic demonstration garden 872 NE 28th Ave., Hillsboro http://extension.oregonstate.edu/ 503-821-1150 Page 15
Slide 16: Staff contact information Any questions before, during or after a program? One or more of the following contacts can help you out. Not all will be working every event. More detail will be shared by email about specific staff at specific events. Please respect that cell numbers are personal, and primarily for emergency or day of event communications. Carl Grimm Natural gardening program manager 503-797-1676 office 503-891-6325 cell (for event day or emergency only) Carl.grimm@oregonmetro.gov Sabrina Gogol Volunteer coordinator and program support 503-797-1938 408-799-6977 cell (for event day or emergency only) Sabrina.gogol@oregonmetro.gov Glen Andresen Natural gardening educator and program support 503-282-8844 glen@pacifier.com Renee Moog Demonstration garden coordinator SE Portland Natural techniques demonstration garden primarily 971-409-1677 cell (for event day or emergency only) reneemoog@mindspring.com Marcia Thomas Demonstration garden coordinator Blue Lake Natural discovery garden primarily 360-608-9000 cell (for event day or emergency only) marcia.thomas@gmail.com Recycling Information Center 503-234-3000 Good number to reach a live person Mondays-Saturdays Page 16