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Slide 1: Long Exposure Effects Drawing with light is extremely really, really fun. In order to get these types of shots, here is a generic combination of camera settings that you can use as a rule of thumb: Put your camera on a tripod and use Manual Mode and manual focus, lower the ISO number as low as it can go. Have your aperture at F8 and your shutter speed at 5 seconds. If you want to make the photo brighter, change the aperture to a smaller number (like F3.5). Adjust your shutter speed as necessary. Most DSLR cameras have a maximum of 30 seconds as the shutter speed. There are many different light toys that create different effects. Things that have been used before include sparklers, glow sticks, flashlights, maglights, fire/torches, RGB strips, Christmas lights, illuminated cell phones, iPods, laser pens, and of course, any kind of LED. Let us get into some examples: Scribble with a laser pen. In this example the laser pen was stroked up and down the models face. The model was very still. Be careful not to get the laser in your eye! 1 sec. / f 3.5 / ISO 200 Copyright © 2010 Evan Sharboneau and PhotoExtremist.com | Page 1
Slide 2: These are city lights from a far away distance. Move your camera up and down (or from left to right) while moving your focus ring at the same time. The camera records the light turning from sharp points into big blurry bokeh blotches. sec. / f 6.3 / ISO 200 / 55mm These lights are little LED Finger Flashlights that wrap around your fingers. I had red, blue, green, and white strapped around my fingers and waved around my hands while running around my kitchen frantically. My body remained invisible because it was not illuminated and was in constant motion. I just randomly drew lines, but you can draw faces or shapes like hearts, or words. Get creative! This was a 30 second exposure. Version 1.2 | PhotoExtremist.com | Page 2
Slide 3: This is just a standard long exposure of a firework sparkler in motion. Keep in mind that if you use a flash, the person holding the sparkler will show up in the photograph. Regular sparks from fires can also make amazing shots, especially if you go in and out of focus during the exposure. Make sure that the background is dark. 7 sec. / f22 / ISO 200. Sure, you can use sparklers by themselves in empty dark space, but you can also trace objects with sparklers. Cars, bicycles, and sometimes even human beings make great subjects. 7 minutes long, ISO 100, F18 Copyright © 2010 Evan Sharboneau and PhotoExtremist.com | Page 3
Slide 4: You can also use flashlights to give the scene an illustrious look. Simply turn on your flashlight and start “spraying” light onto the scene to illuminate it in the dark. Remember, the entire purpose is not to just light up your subject with a stationary light, but to have a long exposure for say, 6 seconds, and move the light all around the environment to get that magical effect. If you have an extremely powerful flashlight, it is very well possible to illuminate entire landscapes in the dark as well! If you have a tripod on you, and you’re in an amusement park or some kind, long exposures of rides look very good when taken in long exposure mode. Ferris wheels are a classic example. For a light painter, going to an amusement park at night is like a kid going to a candy store Version 1.2 | PhotoExtremist.com | Page 4
Slide 5: You can also create long exposure silhouettes. Put your camera on a tripod. Make sure your subject is standing still. Make sure there is no light shining on them from the front. Take your exposure, and then start light painting light from behind them. 5-30 seconds is good. This particular image was made using a battery operated fiber optic light. It constantly changes colors to create a unique effect. Copyright © 2010 Evan Sharboneau and PhotoExtremist.com | Page 5
Slide 6: This was a long exposure of Christmas tree lights on a Christmas tree. It was a one second exposure. In order to get really smooth, straight lines, get your lens in focus then turn autofocus off so your camera won’t get stuck trying to focus. Then take ~1 second (or shorter) exposure and jerk your hand in a really fast motion, you should get a result just like this Long exposures of traffic lights have always been the classic example of long exposures. You must have a good tripod though. 30 sec / f18 / 50mm/ ISO 100 Version 1.2 | PhotoExtremist.com | Page 6
Slide 7: These lights are the little LED Finger Flashlights that wrap around your fingers. My body remained invisible because it was not illuminated and was in constant motion. Remember that you can draw faces or shapes like hearts or words. Get creative! These images are 30 second exposures. Copyright © 2010 Evan Sharboneau and PhotoExtremist.com | Page 7
Slide 8: These are called physiograms. Simply tie a string to the end of the Maglight, attach the other end of the string to the ceiling. About 2-4 feet is good. Maglights are pretty much MADE for physiograms (or any kind of light painting) because they are lightweight, and the cap can be taken off to enable a ‘candle mode’, making it the perfect light toy. Once your Maglight is dangling from the ceiling, put your camera on the floor right underneath the Maglight (on manual focus) turn the room lights off and the Maglight on, give the Maglight a little push, then take your 30 second exposure (or however long you want it. 15-30 seconds is what I use.) More information about physiograms can be found here. Version 1.2 | PhotoExtremist.com | Page 8
Slide 9: Again, LEDs are just great. You can trace objects with them, just like you can with sparklers! (Although, of course, use sparklers outside!) I was using my green LED Finger Flashlight again on this one. You can also make flash stencils! Just put cardboard in front of your flash with a design cut out in it, and you’re ready to go. You can learn how to make flash stencils in more detail here. Copyright © 2010 Evan Sharboneau and PhotoExtremist.com | Page 9
Slide 10: Another cool thing to do with flashes is to take a 30 second exposure in the darkness and fire the flash multiple times on your subject in different areas in the frame. This is similar to multiplicity photography that I will talk about in section 5. And last but not least: Capturing lightning. This was a 7 minute exposure with the camera on a tripod. This is great because you can capture multiple strikes of lightning in one frame. However, because super long exposures introduce noise on the camera's sensor, you can help eliminate that by just taking a bunch of 30 second exposures one after the other, and then overlapping the frames in Photoshop by using the Lighten, Screen, or Linear Doge (Add) blending modes. Version 1.2 | PhotoExtremist.com | Page 10
Slide 11: Long Exposures During Day You can also create long exposures of landscapes during the DAY by using an extremely dark filter that attaches to the front of your lens. The filter you can use is a B+W filter, an ND400 filter (I'd recommend this one), or even an Infrared filter. Taking long exposures during the day is useful for creating foggy/ghostly seascapes, blurring clouds, blurring water and waterfalls, and removing people from a scene. I’ll show you examples of all of these methods below. Long exposures are excellent for moving ocean waters splashing against rocks. The longer the exposure = the more misty the water will look. Your camera needs to be on a tripod. Make sure to get your focus in scene before you put the filter on. After that is done, put your filter on. Switch to manual focus because your camera won’t be able to focus after you have put on that extremely black filter. Switch to shutter priority mode and make the exposure as long as you can get it without overexposing your image Then of course, take the picture…  If you need more exposure time, make sure you are using the lowest ISO number you can (Like ISO 200 or lower), and the largest F Number you can (like F22, for example) Copyright © 2010 Evan Sharboneau and PhotoExtremist.com | Page 11
Slide 12: Long exposures of waterfalls create that smooth/soothing effect that is very popular. This looks blue and white because it was taken with an Infrared Filter attached to my camera lens. If you were using an ND400, the colors would be normal. We will talk about the infrared filter in detail later in this book and how you can use it to put surreal colors in your landscapes. This is a composite of two images. Both were taken on a tripod. The sky was too bright, so one had to be set for a 5 second exposure, while the other image of the water had to be set to 20 seconds. Then the two images were put together in Photoshop to give a wider dynamic range. Again, the long exposure is made possible by the use of a ND400 filter. You can also wait until dawn or dusk when it is really dark and take your photos without the need for a filter. Version 1.2 | PhotoExtremist.com | Page 12
Slide 13: Other fun long exposures A creative use for the ND filter would be to take a picture of a watch or clock. In this 4 minute long exposure you can see each second hand as it moves around the clock. These eyes were constantly moving while the camera took a 1.5 second exposure. No Photoshop! Copyright © 2010 Evan Sharboneau and PhotoExtremist.com | Page 13
Slide 14: This was a one second exposure. Half of the exposure the eye was open, then after .5 seconds, the eye was shut. What you see is the eye both open and closed at the same time. This is a long exposure at night time of snow falling! The snow was illuminated with a light, and a tree is in the background. 3 seconds. Version 1.2 | PhotoExtremist.com | Page 14
Slide 15: If you enjoyed this ebook, you may be interested in my full Trick Photography and Special Effects ebook. It is basically a super version of the ebook you are reading right now. 290 pages with and 9 hours of video tutorials about taking amazing photos with your DSLR. Click here to check the full course! Copyright © 2010 Evan Sharboneau and PhotoExtremist.com | Page 15
Slide 16: Legal information: All images in this ebook are hyperlinked to their original location on the internet. This means you can click on any photo in this ebook and it will direct you to the original photo on the web! Feel free to comment the photographer's great work and ask them questions if you want to know more about their image. The photos that do not contain any hyperlinks have been created by myself. The author has made every reasonable attempt to achieve accuracy of the content in this ebook, and assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. The information contained in this document is “as-is” and should only be used as you see fit, and at your own risk. Any trademarks, service marks, personal names or product names are the property of their respective owners, and are used only for reference. There is no implied sponsorship, affiliation, certification, approval, or endorsement if we use one of these terms. Rather than put a trademark symbol after every occurrence of a trademarked name, we use names in an editorial fashion only, and to the benefit of the trademark owner, with no intention of infringement of the trademark. Where such designations appear in this book, they have been printed with initial caps. THIS PRODUCT IS NOT ENDORSED OR SPONSORED BY ADOBE SYSTEMS INCORPORATED, PUBLISHER OF Adobe® Photoshop® software. Adobe, the Adobe logo, and Adobe Photoshop are either registered trademarks or trademarks of Adobe Systems Incorporated in the United States and/or other countries. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Version 1.2 | PhotoExtremist.com | Page 16