Slide 1: ==== ==== All information regarding Soil, please check the provided websites: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Cushion, http://www.rightpands.com, and others. http://EzineArticles.com/, http://www.rightpands.com ==== ====
Soil The texture, water retentive properties, pH, nutrient content, trace elements and micro organisms and fauna (such as worms) within your soil are all crucial to developing and growing healthy plants. However, once you have the balance right and know how to maintain it, you will be growing fantastic vegetables. pH Values Explained. Briefly, soil is classed as either acidic, neutral or alkaline. This range is measured on what is called the pH scale from pH1 (very acidic) through to pH 14 (very alkaline) Neutral is pH 7. For example a pH of 6 would be considered slightly acidic or a pH of 8 would be slightly alkaline. It is possible to find out the pH value of your soil through a simple test that can be bought from most garden centres and shops. I would highly recommend completing 1 or more tests on your vegetable plot to ascertain the pH of your soil as it will enable you to decide if your soil pH needs improving, or is suitable for the vegetables you want to grow. The test is usually done with a corresponding colour chart. Results that are red, orange or yellow are acidic (pH below 7), green is neutral pH 7, blues and purples are alkaline (pH above 7) Soil Types In general terms soils are made up of particles that vary in size, the smallest are clay particles, then there are the slightly larger silt particles, and finally, sandy particles being the largest. These particles blended together make up different grades of soil. There are seven main soil types. Which one best describes yours? Clay soil Heavy Loam Medium Loam Sandy Loam Sandy Soil Chalky / limestone soils Peat soils Clay Soil The characteristics of a clay soil are:
Slide 2: Consist of very small particles, or grains (less than 0.002 mm in diameter!) These small particles fit together very tightly with few air spaces. These particles readily aggregate (stick together) when wet. Lack of air spaces means poor aeration and poor drainage. Clay soils are slow to warm up in the spring. Clay tends to be high in nutrients, but the soils structure means that these may be unavailable to plants. Wet clay is sticky and greasy to the touch. Dry clay is solid, hard and lumpy. Clay is usually neutral in pH (pH 7) Tend to be hard to work. Sandy Soil The characteristics of a sandy soil are: Consists of large particles, or grains (apx 0.05 up to 2mm in diameter). These grains have plenty of air spaces between them. The grains do not aggregate (stick together) readily so water drains through them easily. This free draining can lead to nutrients being washed away (leaching). Sandy soils therefore are often low in nutrients. sandy soils are often acidic (pH of less than 7) They feel gritty to the touch Sandy soils are generally light in colour. They are very easy to work (dig). Sandy soils warm up quickly in the spring. They do however dry out very quickly in the summer, becoming dusty. Chalk Soil The characteristics of chalk soil are: Tend to be pale in colour. They also tend to be shallow in depth. Chalk soil is usually low in nutrients. Can be sticky when wet and lumpy when dry. Peat Soil These are often very acidic and not suitable for most plants. Tend to be rich in organic matter. Can become waterlogged. Loam Soils (Varying from sandy to heavy) The best soils are described as friable loam. These have a good balance of sand, clay, organic matter and nutrients.
Slide 3: These soils are easy to work, have good rich colour, and have a crumbly texture, and good drainage. Okay, that's the soil types and I`m sure you have worked out which one bests describes yours and hopefully you have an idea of the pH of your soil too. Now if you have a lovely friable loam soil with a pH in the range of 6-7 then lucky you!!! If however you do not then don`t despair. Whatever soil you have it can either be improved for your vegetable growing or we can use methods on really poor or shallow soils like raised beds. Soil Improvement Sandy soils can be improved by the addition of organic matter (well rotted farmyard manure, compost, or even seaweed). These can be dug in to improve the soil structure, aid water retention and in turn may encourage beneficial soil organisms. Adding organic matter will add nutrients but further feeding with fertilizers may be necessary. Clay soils can also be greatly improved with the addition of organic matter, as this helps to prevent the particles sticking together, adds air spaces and improves drainage. Sometimes the addition of horticultural grit will also be of benefit. If your soil pH is less than 6 then you need to raise the pH a level or two. This can be achieved by the addition of lime, the quantity used will depend on how much you need to raise the pH by. If your soil is high in pH (above 7) then to achieve the opposite and lower the pH you can try adding wood shavings, or flowers of sulphur. It is unlikely a pH change of more than 1-2 levels will be possible with these methods, and the effects will be short lived and will probably need to be repeated to maintain the desired pH. Micro Organisms and Soil Fauna These are underestimated in their importance to plants. What exactly are we talking about here? Well soil is full of tiny organisms and creatures. Some are good for soil and are called beneficial soil organisms. Some are not so good or harmful soil organisms. Beneficial soil organisms include earthworms, some bacteria, some fungi, some nematodes (simple worms), some beetles, and protozoa. Each of these plays a vital part in your soils environment. A soil that has many earthworms is a good sign. Harmful soil organisms include some nematodes, wire-worms, eel-worms, and the dreaded slug. Drainage If your plot suffers from poor drainage even with an improved topsoil, then you may have an underlying problem perhaps a layer of hard-pan (impermeable layer of subsoil) underneath your topsoil or perhaps the water table (the upper level of water in the ground under a well drained topsoil at any time)) is naturally close to the surface.
Slide 4: It may be in this case that a drainage system may be required, or that the hard-pan will need to be broken up. A simple drainage system would require digging small trenches into which pipes are laid leading to a soak-away or other drainage system. For vegetable growing you are going to need a good 18 inches or 45cm depth of workable, free draining soil (roughly 2 spade depths). If the layer of hard-pan is unbreakable or the water level to high, or a drainage system not feasible, then building raised beds may be the answer.
Paul Shipley A.I. Hort, Dip. H. (Inst. G) For Vegetable Gardening Advice and gardening tips visit http://www.how-to-vegetable-garden.com
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==== ==== All information regarding Soil, please check the provided websites: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Cushion, http://www.rightpands.com, and others. http://EzineArticles.com/, http://www.rightpands.com ==== ====
